Ethiopia, anchoring the Horn of Africa, has echoes of a land of lore: soaring mountain peaks shrouded in mist, bizarre wildlife, cultures lost in time. It’s that, and more: subterranean, monolithic churches carved by unknown hands; Africa’s most endangered carnivore population; some of the continent’s highest peaks; a booming cosmopolitan capital with a vibrant food and arts scene; cultural history dating back millions of years to the early hominids. It may sound like hyperbole, but to an experienced traveler, Ethiopia holds all the components of a true adventure. Despite recent improvements to infrastructure, it is still a destination for intrepid travelers - internal flights are limited and often delayed, road transfers can be long and arduous, cities are clogged with traffic, the weather can be changeable and inhospitable, but all these issues combined seem paled in comparison to the payoff. Moments alone, with frankincense wafting and monks chanting in an ancient underground cathedral, or standing at the edge of a mossy precipice surrounded by non-plussed, endemic primates with remarkable hairdos.